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PANGS
OF LOVE; INIKI ON HALEAKALA
September
14, 1992
At Mom’s place in Kona where I
finally get to unpack my pack and set things out to dry, I find a little joke
from God.
The only items that didn’t get soaking wet are two books of matches. I
pull one match off, strike it … and it lights! It is
to laugh. As if I could have lit that match on the mountaintop in the
hurricane. As if there would have been any dry
wood that the match could have started a fire with … and water still
drips from the pocket in my first aid kit where the
matches were stored.
I decided to climb Mt. Haleakala
only about three weeks ago, and the decision was almost random. The original
plan was to work out angst from my injury and betrayal at the tour company,
and from Dad dying when I was mindless
and unable to support him, by taking a three month canoe trip in Minnesota and Canada. I took the summer off
from
work, but had to stay in Hawaii
to finalize the settlement with the tour company’s lawyer. He dragged
things on until
August, and by the time I got my money, summer was almost over, and all I had
done was to live a semi-homeless,
semi-camping existence.
Feeling
more frustrated than ever, I knew I’d have to do something, and one of
the options I considered was hiking
Haleakala. At first it seemed too tame for working out angst, anger, or
anything (and let me say that I felt betrayed
unto death by that damned tour company. When I was going down for the third
time – drowning – and asked them for
help, they held me under to make sure I stayed down), because the classic
Haleakala trip is to visit only the inside of
the crater. Then the idea came to me to climb the whole mountain from
the ocean to the top, through the crater, and
down the other side. Yeah, I mused, that’s the ticket. Climb over
the whole mountain. At least it would be a little bit of
a work out.
Pulehu:
To Broil
I
hoped to take advantage of full moon conditions and do a lot of hiking at
night, thereby avoiding heat and
exposure to the sun. Last Thursday night I napped a little bit at
Liz’s, left her place at Makiki and Wilder about 3:30
AM, and walked to the Honolulu
airport. On the way I stopped at a 7-11 store for coffee,
and sneaked a look at one of
their newspaper weather reports. The satellite picture showed clear skies
around Hawai’i,
and what looked like a
small hurricane far down to the southeast. It was expected to weaken if/as it
moved northwest, the report said. I knew
from experiencing Hurricane Iwa that there would be warning signs if it got
close. The weather would get noticeably
worse hours before there was any actual danger. Hurricanes don’t just
pop on you without warning.
The
plane got me to Maui about 7:30 AM. I walked
up the airport road to the edge of town, ate a chili
rice (an
excellent one, from First Stop), walked to the edge of the highway (Pulehu)
that traverses the Maui Plain, and looked
for a place to sleep. The sun was blazing down, and this was one of the
segments of the trip that I wanted to do in the
evening or night. Both sides of the road were treeless and barren, though,
either sugar cane fields or abandoned
cane fields. There was no shady place to rest, so I kept on walking.
I
walked and sweated, and there was no cover. As I proceeded across the plain
the road got steeper and the sun
higher, and there was no shade. The sugar fields ended, but now the road was
bordered by big sprawling residential
lots with no empty spaces between them. Sweat was pouring down my back, and
the salt was burning my okole
something fierce. In addition, I was still wearing my presentable
“city” pants, which fit too snugly underneath for this
kind of walking. They rubbed and chafed terribly. I really needed a place to
wash myself down and change into my
hiking clothes, but there was no such place.
About
1 PM I reached Kula, which is where Haleakala gets much steeper. I had
planned to sleep here the second
day, and again continue in the cool of the evening, but there was still no
discrete place to do so, so I scraped on. I
came to the road that led to the forest reserve; here was the last store
where I could get supplies. I could see groves
of trees, though; just up the slope … privacy and relief were almost at
hand. I bypassed the store in favor of the trees.
Oh,
but the road was steep. There were homes everywhere, and most of the groves
were just windbreaks, offering
no cover. Schoolchildren getting off their busses eyed me warily. Obviously,
I was a suspicious looking stranger, and
this was not a place of sanctuary.
At
last I reached a gate where the road entered a ranch. In dismay I saw
switchbacks weaving up across a clear
treeless meadow, and saw a sign: Poli-Poli
State Park – 8
miles. Stay on the road.
Eight
flippin’ miles ?!
Oh, Lord.
Fifty
yards back three kids were watching me closely, like they were ready to call
the neighborhood security watch.
There was no point in looking like I didn’t know what I was doing
… besides, if I went down, I’d just have to go back up
somewhere else, and it’d probably be more than eight miles. And there
was a real band of trees – at least a hundred
yards thick – right at the first curve in the road. Real cover. Up the
road was definitely the way to go. Conditions
would get better. Only … eight … miles.
I
walked through the gate and a tongue licked my hand as a small black dog that
looked like Happy, our childhood
pet from the 1950s, was cavorting along, grinning at
me, so friendly that I didn’t have an instant of fear. She pranced
invitingly right out to that sanctuary of trees, and I could see that 1) she
had recently had puppies – her teats were
full and hanging. 2) She had no collar. 3) She had rich orange eyes, almost
red. I didn’t see where she had come
from, but she seemed right at home on this ranch. Was she a guard dog?
She
led me right out to the trees, and I followed cautiously. It was easy to walk
among those trees, as there were
cow paths everywhere, and it was shady. I considered setting up a temporary
camp. I didn’t want to get in trouble,
but I desperately needed to clean up and change clothes. I could rest for a
bit, go down to that store and get my
supplies … then tomorrow I could sleep late, take my time climbing, and
be half a day ahead of my scheduled
progress. Good plan. I set up my tarp and hammock.
Let
me just say here … I was proud of having that tarp. At twelve feet by
sixteen feet, it was far more than one
person needed, but so light and compact that it was no burden at all. In the
course of the summer I’d used it like a
teepee, a pup tent, a Conestoga wagon cover, an igloo, almost like a
Rubik’s cube. I could fold it twice and have an
eight by six foot ground cover, which could then fold over me as a tent /
blanket. It was water-proof and rip-proof, and
it’s only weakness (according to the instructions that came with it)
was fire. In this case, I just suspended it over the
hammock as an 8 x 6 pup tent.
And
a pup tent it was, post haste. The dog gave me a happy grin, turned around
three times, and dropped into an
instant sleep. A good sign.
“Right
on, Babe,” I told her, and turned to easing my own discomfort. Finally
I got out of my city clothes and
managed to cool and clean myself with handi-wipes
and water. Happily, I stretched out on the hammock in the shade
and let the cool breeze work its soothing magic. Lord, Lord. Relief at last.
I sighed, and drifted, and gave thanks.
And
the cows came home.
I
mean…
Well,
there were cow paths everywhere, and that particular grove went all the way
up to the tree line, so there was
a lot of room for everyone, but these cows wanted to be where I was. They
started crowding in, and one of the calves
started bawling like someone was sleeping in his bed, AND THERE HE IS!
BAAWWW!!!
It
really made me wonder if I should stay.
Then
the bull came down and started bellowing at me, pawing the ground about ten
feet away. There was no doubt
– those cattle wanted me out of there. I doubted that the bull would
attack me, but it was obvious that he wouldn’t
allow me any peace, either. Reluctantly (Reluctantly? There is no word strong
enough...), I got into my proper hiking
clothes, broke camp, and started toward the road. The bull moved up like he
was going to cut me off, but my friendly
dog stepped in between us. The bull seemed like he really wanted to make
trouble, but wasn’t at all certain about the
dog. It took about ten minutes for us to edge past him and start
up the road.
Ahina:
Silver
Up the
road. It was about an hour before sunset, the time when I’d thought I
would be starting across the plain, and
already I’d hiked about 20 – 25 miles, half of that uphill. The
sponge bath had done a lot toward relieving my chafing,
but my feet and legs were extremely tired and sore, and the only relief for
them would be rest. Only eight more steep
miles to go, feet. Hang in there.
When
the sun set, though, and the moon came out, the ranch – and then the
whole island – became a silver
wonderland. As we climbed from about 3500 feet to 6000 feet or so, the world
started to glow with that magical look
that only moonlight can provide. It took hours – the air was getting
thin, so I had to walk slowly; my feet were in agony,
and I had to take the load off them every few minutes – but I started
to get the feeling that this was a good trip. This
was what I had come here for … crisp, clean air, and silver magic.
The
only thing that perplexed me was that dog. As we climbed higher the bulls
seemed to get meaner, and more
inclined to lie in wait, then lurch out to block the road at the last second.
I almost always missed them, but the dog
was my shepherd, and would stop in her tracks, look at me, and start whining.
Eventually I’d see the bull, we’d edge
around it, and she’d become the happy roaming dog again.
At
first I almost thought that she was a ranch dog, trained to guide hikers, but
she had no collar, and sometimes
seemed more afraid of the bulls than I was. She obviously still had a litter
of puppies somewhere, too… surely she
wouldn’t abandon them for me.
My
thoughts turned to Hawaiian religion. Wasn’t Pele supposed to have a
dog? Was it black or white, I couldn’t
remember. Didn’t the different islands have ghost dogs? In any event,
powerful spirits could take on any form they felt
like, including a pure black dog with blazing orange eyes. What would I do if
those eyes lit up luminous red? Hadn’t
she just appeared out of nowhere to join me? Whatever my questions were, I
knew that her affection, guidance, and
mystery made her very special, and I’d have to respect that.
Around
midnight we reached the end of the paved road, where only a dirt road
continued into the park. As this had
become my adjusted goal for the night, I immediately started looking for a
place to sleep. I found a nice, flat, grassy
ledge about twenty feet above the road, and started to spread out the tarp.
“Babe”
didn’t like it. She faced a darkness on the
hill just above us and whined nervously. Peering into the dark, I
couldn’t see what was bothering her, so I got out my flashlight. We
were at the mouth of a multiple cave, and I could
see several openings large enough to enter. Were they burial caves? Were
there spirits there, or thugs lying in wait,
or just bad vibes? I couldn’t tell, but I figured if the black mystery
dog with orange eyes didn’t like it, that was enough
for me. We moved on a few hundred yards.
On
the downhill side of the road we found another soft flat space overlooking
silver Maui. I spread out the tarp 8 x 6
as I’ve described and folded it over me. Babe lay alongside, and we
watched the moon pass, and the island and
clouds shine, and it was good.
The
early light of dawn woke me. My glasses had come off during the night –
I always fall asleep with them on if I’m
in a new place, since I’m so blind without them – and I had to
scrabble and grope for half a minute to find them. When
I finally got them on, I saw millions of crystalline sparkling dew droplets.
The air was so clear that the west Maui
mountains seemed almost within reach. I could see features on
Kaho’olawe and Lana’i, and in the distance Moloka’i
and O’ahu stood out like rocks in a pond.
My
body felt like it needed about twelve more hours of sleep, but my mind was
up. After lying there for about half an
hour or so, I got up and ate. Except for getting supplies, I was about half a
day ahead of schedule. If I left my pack
here, I could bring up a ton of food, then explore
the crater at leisure. I decided to stroll down to the store this
morning, take my time shopping, and climb back later in the afternoon, when
the sun had passed its peak.
I
hid the pack in some thick underbrush, called Babe, and started down. Babe
started up the road, gave me a look
of utter disgust when she saw that I was going the other way, then, dog
fashion, joined me and trotted along happily.
In
the daylight I could see how thin she was. Even though she had a thick
lustrous coat, her ribs stood out pretty
starkly. Maybe she was lost or abandoned, rather than some volcano spirit. I
hoped that when we got back to the
houses she’d turn out to belong to one of them, but she followed me
through the ranch gate, all the way down the
road to the store.
I
explained the situation to the store people, and they gave me a few phone
numbers – of the humane society and
radio stations that had lost and found broadcasts. They didn’t volunteer
the use of their phone, though, and no pay
phones were around, so I bought a loaf of twelve grain bread and a pound of
salami, went outside and shared
sandwiches with Babe, and waited. Within an hour or so the store manager
– who looked like a pretty fine young
mother herself – took a liking to Babe and busted out some real dog
food and water. I stuck around long enough to
be sure that Babe was in good hands, then went inside, did some real
shopping, and disappeared out the back door.
I felt bad doing this (about 1% guilty), but I couldn’t see taking that
poor dog over the mountain and away from her
family (?) in her condition.
In
addition to the usual dried foods, saimin, and peanuts, I’d bought two
things that had me excited gastronomically.
One was a pound of sirloin steak chopped stir-fry style, with an onion and
squash to go with it. This, I anticipated,
would make a great meal tonight, and give me a good healthy energy reserve.
The other was an 18 ounce bag of
chocolate chip cookies, for climbing fuel. I don’t usually like sweet
things to eat, but my body was craving sugar-type
food, and my taste buds told me that they wanted those cookies. I ate half a
dozen and headed up toward base camp.
What
a difference 24 hours made! My feet, legs, and crotch had recovered, and with
energy renewed from the rest
and food, my body enjoyed the walk. I had to walk slowly because of the
altitude, but I was able to maintain my normal
breathing/ walking rhythm: inhale for two steps, exhale for four.
This
led to speculation about the Asian religions and their use of controlled
breathing. Had that originated on the
Himalayan trails, as early monks made their long treks up to the monasteries?
Was that one of the reasons that the
Asian martial arts were so successfully permeated by their religions? Martial
arts and mountain climbing certainly
have that in common: if you lose your breath control you have had it.
It
was a long peaceful afternoon. My breaths pulled me up the mountain smoothly,
and my only regret was that a
certain black dog wasn’t waiting as I came around the switchbacks. At
each corner I found myself hoping that she’d
be there, although if she had been I probably would have been scared witless.
Well, maybe. I had to admit that I’d
suspected that she was an incarnation of Pele. In fact, I’d wanted to
call her Pele instead of Babe, but hadn’t dared to
– what if I did, and her eyes and the world lit up in red fire?
Now a curious thing happened at base
camp that evening. I wasn’t sure if I was on the ranch or in the park
– my
camp was in a forest of pines, but there were still a lot of cattle roaming
around – and I didn’t want to get in trouble for
having a cooking fire. There weren’t any signs at all,
regarding fire or anything, and I really wanted to eat that
chopped steak, so I decided to go for it.
More
careful than usual, I meticulously cleared a spot for a fireplace and
double-lined it with rocks. There was a lot
of dry wood around, and I gathered enough for several fires, but when I tried
to light it, none of it would catch fire. An
hour after dark I was still fanning and feeding wood onto the pitiful little
pyre, but it never got up enough to keep itself
going. I put my pan of steak, onion, and squash right over the
“blaze,” and huffed and puffed and fanned it for about
two more hours, but my water (I had about ½ inch in the pan, instead
of oil) never even simmered. Finally I just ate
everything raw and drank the bloody broth. Sashimi pipi.
Oh,
well. The way everything else had turned out so well, I couldn’t really
bitch too much. I admired the regal moon
as I folded myself into the warm tarp and burped raw onion.
Iniki:
Pangs of Love
The
tarp flew off me and a wind-driven blast of icy rain drenched me to the skin.
A loud crrr-a-a-c-k …ksssh told
me that a tree had been snapped and flung about fifty feet through the air.
The wind howled – all around me trees
were cracking, their roots groaning as they tried to keep their grip on the
ground. I rolled with the wind, got a grip on
the tarp and managed to wrap it around me, then lay there, trying to collect
my wits.
My
God, what had happened? This must be that hurricane I’d seen in the
weather picture, but how had it sprung up
so fast? How could I have slept with such sounds of destruction all around? I
couldn’t … Faint pre-dawn light back-lit
the trees as they bowed and writhed and whipped to and fro, looking like
black flames out of hell. Al, baby, I thought,
none of those questions or their answers are worth beans. You’d better
do the right thing and do it fast, before one of
those trees kills you.
I
got the tarp and dirty dishes into the pack, and the food and water into
plastic grocery bags and was ready to go
in about a minute. It was the fastest I’ve ever broken camp. What to do
now, hide or move? As if in answer, a large
branch broke off a tree right in front of me and was slammed into the ground
at the base of its trunk. If I’d been hiding
under that tree, I would have been impaled. No, the forest was not the place
to hide. The ranch below me had those
thin groves of wind break trees that were probably even more vulnerable, and
I’d have to walk miles down to the
nearest buildings. Whatever was ahead was unknown; the road led into the
park, but was it near or far? Were there
roads there, and would they be any protection in this weather? Most of the
state park “buildings I’ve seen in Hawai’i
are just roofs on four corner posts, with no walls at all. Above the park,
from what I’d seen on clear days, the tree line
ended; there would be far less flying debris than anywhere else, but the wind
would probably be stronger. On the
other hand, on O’ahu I’d climbed right through the top of several
storms, come out above the clouds, and been the
only person on the island to get a suntan that day.
I
opted for the unknown – up the trail and into the park. The closest
buildings should be there, and if they weren’t, I’
d climb above the tree line. There, without worrying about flying trees, I
could wrap myself in my aluminum emergency
blanket and the tarp. The blanket was another thing I was proud of having.
Every time I’d tried it on O’ahu, it made me
sweat too much to be able to sleep. It was, after all, a survival blanket.
This just might be its test.
As
daylight came on it was possible to look when I heard a tree snapping off,
and see if it was flying my way, so my
paranoia about getting hit by something eased a bit. The awesome display of
nature’s power became fascinating and
exhilarating, and the successful struggle of most of the plants to hold on
was inspirational. The smell of pine resin
emanating from injured trees reminded me of Christmas, and Minnesota. In fact, I was getting about
three months of
northern forest storms in this one morning. I had to smile … to laugh.
Yes. I was here for this as much as the
moonlight magic.
The
road forked. To the left it led up the crest to the summit; to the right it
went down to civilization. If my map was
correct, the park headquarters (and maybe buildings!) were very near, along
the right fork. I was shivering pretty
violently by this time, and needed shelter, so I headed down. There were no
buildings, though. The pine forest
ended, and eucalyptus trees became dominant. They were much more brittle and
less well rooted than the pines, and
the destruction and flying debris seemed about ten times worse. A
hundred yards into the eucalyptus, I stopped
where a huge fallen tree blocked the road. Buildings or not, I didn’t
want to go any further into those trees.
The
fallen tree provided a little shelter, though. I crawled under the trunk and
broke out breakfast and my map. As I
munched a can of chili, some bread, and another half dozen cookies, I
scrutinized that map. If it was correct, I should
have reached buildings by now. A sign back at the fork had mentioned public
restrooms ahead, but they were
probably port-a- potties, blown out to sea by this time. The way it looked on
the map, the shortest way to guaranteed
buildings would be to go back up to the crest and on to the observatory at
the summit.
It
took about half an hour to eat and deliberate, and my shivering turned to
shaking. I had to get moving and create
more body heat. Before I left the fallen tree I took out the tarp and
strapped it to the outside of the pack, partly to
protect the pack, and partly to have the tarp readily available.
As
I’d thought, there were far fewer flying objects above the tree line,
but the wind did get stronger when there was
nothing to slow it down. About noon I reached the crest of Haleakala’s
southeast ridge, and the wind direction
became more consistent, blowing up the east side of the ridge and across the
crest. The road curved in gentle
switchbacks just barely on the west side of the ridge, and every time I
rounded a turn on the crest side it was a battle.
It would take five minutes to go thirty feet around a curve.
At
the 8000 or 9000 foot elevation it became a battle just to stay on my feet.
“Progress” consisted of staggering 10
or 12 feet left, and 10 or 12 feet right, and maybe picking up 2 or 3 feet in
the process. I took off my glasses and cap
and stuffed them into a pocket, and had to crawl sometimes just to see where
the road was. The road had leveled off
and straightened out, though, so I knew I was near the summit. If that
wasn’t the good news and the bad news: it
meant that I was almost there, but it also meant that I was totally exposed
right on the crest. There was wind coming
up the slope from way down at sea level compressing against wind coming in at
9000 feet, blasting across the crest
with nothing to stop it except me.
A
gust flung me across the road into a boulder, and my left arm was wrenched
from its position holding my glasses
in their pocket. The glasses and cap flew away. Oh, God, no … not my
glasses! The bag holding my water bottles
ripped and the bottles rolled – blew away into the slipstream mist. I
crawled behind the boulder and sat panting and
shaking. Shaking. Shaking in huge spastic shivers. This was so strange.
I’d eaten well, and my inside furnace was
stoked. I had the strength and energy to battle for hours more, but on the
outside I was frozen. I couldn’t clench my
fingers. Every limb was jerking in six inch shakes.
And
I knew that I was almost there. The last trail sign I’d seen –
hours ago – had said 2 1/2 miles, and I’d gone the
bulk of that distance. Just ahead of me was Science City,
the observatory, the visitors’ center. Just ahead. Buildings.
People. Warmth. I tightened the pack, grabbed the food bag firmly, put my
head down like a football lineman, and
pushed into the wind.
It
was a stalemate. I could stagger left or right or maybe forward, like before,
but the wind pushed me backwards
even when my feet were solidly dug in. As tightly as the pack was strapped to
me, the wind pulled it away from my
back. Caught it like a sail, flew me through the air, slammed
me to the ground. On hands and knees I crawled back to
the road. The wind blew me over, rolled me over into the rocks.
It
wasn’t a stalemate, I was losing. It didn’t matter that I had
energy and strength, it wasn’t enough. There was no
point in wasting energy trying to find buildings. It was time to crawl under
the tarp and hope that the storm ended
soon.
Lying
on the road, I struggled out of the pack. Holding the food bag with my legs,
I tried to loosen the tarp from the
pack, but my frozen fingers couldn’t do it. I had to assist with my
teeth, and had to lay on both the pack and the tarp
to keep them from blowing away.
Finally
the tarp was loose. I wanted to undo it two folds, so it would be 4 feet by 6
feet with the crease side upwind,
then crawl in with the pack and food. I spread it out to 4 x 3 and tried to
position the pack so I could slide it into the
crease at the next unfolding.
The
food bag broke loose, and when I reached for it, the wind tore the tarp free
and set the pack rolling. I grabbed
the tarp – ah, my fingers could grip – but the wind unfurled it
in a flash. It fluttered like a trapped panicked bird and
shredded before my eyes. In seconds I was holding two tattered remnants
… shreds between my fingers. The tarp
was gone. The pack, the food, everything … gone.
Just
like that, I had no shelter, no reserve. I couldn’t see the pack. The
food bag was rolling away. It was a large
trash bag, and so was catching the wind, but the heavier items inside sort of
held it down, so all in all it rolled, like jello
rolling downhill. I sat on the road in shock, shaking, and watched it
disappear. Oh, man. Up until now I’d had
everything with me. Oh, God, I was dead.
“Up
until now” didn’t mean anything at all. I had to go on. The
summit was 10,000 something feet, and even without
the wind chill of a hurricane it would get too cold (as low as 30 degrees,
one pamphlet had said) to spend the night
without shelter, or at least a jacket. I was wearing a tee shirt, a pair of
pants, and hiking shoes. If I didn’t make it to
those buildings, I was dead.
I
forced myself into the wind again. Without the pack and food bag progress was
only slightly better, but it was
progress – staggering sideways or forward, flying backwards ...
.crawling... shaking too much to control my steps …
crying, dying … time stopped … time was the blasting howling wind
… eyelids too weak to open against it … my face
slammed against the rocks … dirt in my mouth … freezing wet since
before dawn … flying … shaking, shaking …
shaking …
In
a flash – an infinite instant – I saw two eyes staring through me
without focus or recognition. Dad, in his semi-
coma at Straub before he died. Back then I was mindless, from my concussion,
like Charley in Flowers for Algernon,
and I didn’t want to live. I marveled at how hard Dad was fighting, and
for so little. He had no hope of any kind of
quality life, but he fought for it so tenaciously. It was unfair; I thought
to God, that Dad should be dying when I was the
one who didn’t want to live. At that point I would have traded my life
expectancy for his, if that had been possible. His
arm was as solid as a block of wood, even though his mind was deep, fighting
the hardest battle of his life, the battle
he lost.
Mind
deep. I saw.
This
was where he had been.
“Dad!”
I cried. “Dad…”
Who
art in heaven. The eyes stared through me, through the rocks, through the
shrieking
wind …
Oh,
God, that was my sin, that was why this was
happening to me. We are each allotted our time and our struggle,
and I had scorned mine. If I didn’t want my life, God would take it
back. So there.
I’m
sorry I’m sorry I’m sorry I’m sorry
I’m sorry
There
was pavement, there was a road, there were buildings … They were
only equipment sheds, locked. I
followed the road up through driving rain/mist and found more locked
buildings. Electric generators, humming. The
wind slammed me against a wall, a sign: U.S. Government
No Trespassing No
Entry
No
people.
I
tried to hide behind a building but the wind and rain swirled, laughing,
howling, following me, and stung into my
bones. If anything, the storm was getting worse. The light was fading. I was
turning to ice and it was only starting to
get cold. Thirty degrees. You fool. You fool.
One
building had only a latch on the door, and no lock. My stiff fingers my shaking
fingers … No. No, they couldn’t. I
managed to knock the latch off with spasms. The door slammed open and the
wind swirled in creating a welcoming
mini-hurricane. Laughing. Ready to cradle me. Inside, there was no way to
close the door securely. The hurricane
came right in full force along with me. Water, blasting. Wind. Ice. Ooooooooooohhh, and now it will get cold.
O
to lie down in the water on the floor and shake and shake and shake
flex hands and toes
and shake breathe two in four out shake shake shake
shake shake shake shake
BREATHE two in four out
in out shake shake shake
breathe shake shake shake shake
shake shake shake
BREATHE YOU FOOL shake
shake
I
can’t say it enough; shaking shaking
shaking shaking
Big,
violent spasms that wracked my entire body. I curled up in the fetal position
on my side; of all my body parts
that could touch the ground – foot, ankle, calf, knee, thigh, hip,
butt, ribs, shoulder, arm, elbow, hands, and head –
maybe two or three were in contact at any given time. The rest were spasing
into space.
If
I didn’t flex my hands and feet they started to lose sensation, and
several times I “woke” from a
vision of a black
hole floating in front of me, to find my limbs cold and numb. I wasn’t
shaking, because my body was frozen too stiff.
Very scary. I’d start flexing and breathing again, and as sensation
returned, so did the shaking.
Stay
awake and breathe and shake. Twelve hours until daybreak. For twelve hours,
don’t fall into that black hole.
Shake and breathe, and listen to the wind howl.
I
see scientists coming to this building in about three days, finding me dead.
I’m
in an oxygen tent, with pneumonia.
You’re
gone, you fool. You’ll be lucky if all you get is pneumonia.
mmmmn, the wind
No
body no shaking no cold flex something
flex hands hands? shake shake shake
shake
shake shake shake shake
shake breathe shake shake
I
fell into the black hole
I
fell into a dream
In
a dream, the wind stopped howling. Ice water on the floor.
My body lay frozen. From
somewhere, there was light.
In
a dream, machinery hummed. There was light. The floor was cold. My body was
cold. Quietness. No wind…
My
body – shaking no more – feeling nothing – rose like mist
from ice water on the floor and drifted to the doorway.
Dawn was clear and cloudless. Haleakala – house of the sun
–
In
a dream, my body came out into the open. I moved from the shelter to
the road, and started (walking?) down.
My body started shaking, but it was in the distance – I felt nothing.
I weighed absolutely nothing.
In
my new incarnation, still shaking, I floated down the road, found the trail,
and started down it, hoping to find some
of my gear. What else was there to do? After walking the better
part of an hour, I came to my pack, snagged against
a rock about 50 yards off the trail. Strange, the day before, I’d
thought it was only a five or ten minute struggle from
the time I’d lost the pack until I got to the road. About 50 feet
down the road from where the pack was were two
parallel skid marks – tracks of my feet – 20 feet long –
where I had been blown backwards, and slammed into the
rocks.
The
food bag had held together. It was lodged against some rocks another 50
feet from the pack. I carried the
food and pack to the road and left them there, then continued down the road
to see what else I could find. After
(walking?) about 100 feet I found two parallel skid marks – tracks of
my shoes – 20 feet long – where I had been
blown backwards and slammed into the rocks. I vaguely remembered that
happening numerous times. There should
be more tracks like that.
Continuing
down, shaking, weightless. Blind as I was without my glasses, I
didn’t have much hope, but about
another half mile downhill, and 100 feet off the trail were my two bottles of
water.
I
walked carefully across loose rocks to retrieve the bottles, and when I stood
up, something sparkled way off in the
distance. Everything else was dull, either rock or packed dirt, but
this sparkle caught my eye. After all, what else was
missing? It couldn’t possibly be my glasses, but I had to check.
Sure
enough, there they were. Even the lens that was chronically loose in
the frame was still in place. I put the
glasses on, and the mountaintop sprang into focus. Clear sky and stark
barren rocks. The sun had just cleared the
lower level clouds. God, the sun. The analogy struck me as deeply
as it has ever struck any human. Haleakala –
House Of The Son. Thank You, Jesus.
I
dropped to my knees and said the Lord’s Prayer. When I was
through I started over and said it again. And again,
I don’t know how many times. Thank You, God, for giving me this
dream, this vision before I die. As I die. I don’t
know, but thank You.
After
a long time it occurred to me that God had probably got the message. As
long as He had granted me these
last few moments of time, I might as well get up and appreciate this world
before it faded away.
In
the thin air it took a long time to trudge back up the trail with the water
bottles. When I got to the pack and food,
a quick check revealed that everything was soaked through and through with
water. I consolidated what I could of the
load, and started up toward the summit. Progress was slow, let me tell
you. At least the sun warmed my body, and it
finally stopped shaking, but I was still weightless.
When
I got to the summit observatory, a ranger was cleaning water from the inside
windows and walls. The
hurricane had swirled around inside this building, too. A group of
tourists stood and watched as I examined the food
bag and pack contents. Saimin packages were still sealed tightly, but
the noodles inside were soaked and swelling.
The camera was in a plastic bag inside a Tupperware container that was
double-wrapped in two plastic bags. Seeing
moisture inside, I unscrewed the lens and poured water from inside the
camera.
The
tourist’s eyes were wide, their jaws gaping. I explained to them
that this water hadn’t leaked into the camera, it
had been blasted down to H2O molecules by the hurricane, and driven through
the Tupperware and bags and
camera shell. They nodded silently.
I
smeared wet saimin broth over some noodles, ate a cold breakfast, and
continued over the crater lip into
Haleakala’s caldera. Why not? This strange weightless dream
was lasting longer than I’d thought it would. Thank
You, God. I will appreciate.
The
crater was pristine. Creation. A new life. I will not
attempt to describe it; go see for yourself.
That evening I
hung my hammock at the north wall of the crater, and, rocking in womblike
bliss, watched the silver moon work its
magic over Heaven and Earth.
Still
in the dream, I fell asleep… and woke up. Not dead (yet), but on
the north end of Haleakala. Amazed,
thankful, a ghost, I ate (!) and started down the frozen lava of Kaupo gap.
Across the ocean, still in morning mist,
were silhouettes of peaks on Hawai’i,
the Big Island... Kohala, Mauna
Kea, Hualalai…
And
around that ridge … I could almost see it… Mom’s house in
Kona.
September
14. Two days later. I don’t really believe it, but here I
have dreamed through another day and another
night. Here I am at Mom’s place in warm sunny Kona, finally
pulling everything from the pack, setting it all out to dry
on the lanai. Everything is still soaked… food, clothes,
camera… I am still weightless, and I do not believe that I have
survived – that I am actually alive. I will never believe 100%
that I am still alive. This is a parallel life, another
incarnation / dimension, but no, no…
And
here are these two books of matches; dry, ready to light. Candles in
the wind. Like those last hours on
Haleakala… I know that my life is not mine. It belongs to God,
and when the wind blows…
Was
it a blessing or a curse? Would things have gone differently if I had
kept Babe with me? I’d thought I was
protecting her – was I really scorning Pele’s company? Not
intentionally.
Nor
did I really scorn my life. Thank You, God, I welcome the slings and
arrows. And I did not tempt fate; it seemed
wise to avoid flying trees and head for higher ground. I was not
arrogant… until everything blew away, I had
everything with me. I thought that at the worst I would crawl under my
tarp and eat cookies.
Your
life can change in an instant.
That’s
another way to spell humility. The best laid plans of mice and
men… Your life can change in an instant.
Maybe it’s a backward flip off a piggyback ride… maybe it’s
a pack blown into a windstorm…Maybe it’s
one match still
dry…
One
more flicker of a candle in the wind…
Thank
You.
Al
Arney
September
14, 1992
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